Back Home by Chris Hardie
“I shall be telling this with a sigh
Somewhere ages and ages hence:
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference.”
Robert Frost
Some of my stories over the years have come during countryside sojourns that take the path less traveled.
It’s easy when you live in the Driftless Region of Wisconsin, with its many coulees, ridges, streams and wooded hills. When I have the time, I prefer to take a different road, another route just to see what I can see.
Sometimes you come around a corner and see the remnants of an old windmill, barn, abandoned farmhouse or farm animals. Sometimes the ordinary – a tree – becomes spectacular if covered with hoar frost on an icy winter morning, especially when splashed with sunlight that becomes a burst of sparkling diamonds upon the frost.
Fortunately for all of us, the state provides a map for such journeys. The Rustic Roads program was created more than 50 years ago to provide hikers, bicyclists and motorists an opportunity to leisurely travel through the state’s scenic countryside. The state’s first Rustic Road in Taylor County between Hwy. 102 and County Hwy. D was dedicated in 1975 and crosses hills and valleys created by the last Wisconsin glacier nearly 12,000 years ago.
Today, there are 126 designated Rustic Roads spanning approximately 760 miles through 61 counties. You can find those roads in the 2026 Rustic Roads Guide that is available in both print and online. The guide – which is a partnership between the Wisconsin Department of Transportation and the Wisconsin Department of Tourism – includes photos and descriptions of the Rustic Roads as well as the state’s five Scenic Byways.
“Whether traveling by car, motorcycle, bicycle, or on foot, Wisconsin’s Rustic Roads program has allowed Wisconsinites and visitors alike to experience our state’s natural beauty and historic charm for over half a century,” Wisconsin Gov. Tony Evers said. “No matter the season, traveling on these one-of-a-kind roadways will encourage folks to unwind and enjoy all of our state’s vast and vibrant outdoor spaces and a unique piece of our history.”
The roads are identified by brown and yellow signs marking the routes, which range from two miles to 37 miles in length and have a maximum speed limit of 45 miles per hour.
“Wisconsin’s Rustic Roads and Scenic Byways encourage us to slow down and enjoy the moment,” said Tourism Secretary Anne Sayers. “The feeling of discovery along a Rustic Road will leave you wanting more. One more quiet country bend. One more unexpected roadside farmstand. One more route that leads to a local eatery or hiking trail. This Rustic Roads Guide is your trusted copilot for a memorable Wisconsin road trip.”
It was on Rustic Road 26 in La Crosse County where I found a story and then some. The 5.3-mile route that follows Brinkman’s Ridge with views of the Mississippi River also drives past the Oehler Mill along Mormon Coulee Creek. This 1862 stone mill was built in a location steeped with history, which I detailed in a story in 2023.
The Wisconsin Trust for Historic Preservation placed Oehler Mill on its list of 10 most endangered historic properties in 2002. The trust states that the mill “stands in a prime area for development, rezoning, and urban encroachment.” The area was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2013.
Another beautiful drive in my neck of the woods is Rustic Road 91, a 5-mile route on River Drive off Hwy. 54 in Trempealeau County. This is a partially unpaved loop near the Black River bottoms that crosses Grant Creek, wooded areas and farmland. It’s not far from where my ancestors from Scotland settled in the early 1850s.
One of the shorter Rustic Roads is No. 26, which travels through several streets in the village of West Salem in La Crosse County and then loops around Swarthout Park with views of Lake Neshonoc. The main attractions of this road is not wildlife but rather a pair of historic homes: the Palmer-Gullickson Octagon House on the National Register of Historic Places and the Hamlin Garland Homestead, the home where the Pulitzer prize-winning author did much of his writing.
“The Rustic Roads program is a great opportunity to promote the exploration of Wisconsin’s roads less traveled,” said WisDOT Secretary Kristina Boardman. “Wisconsin’s Scenic Byways and Rustic Roads are both the result of collaboration with local leaders, and we are thankful for the ongoing efforts that make these programs so strong. We encourage communities across the state to submit applications and nominate new routes because we believe there is always one more great destination to uncover in Wisconsin.”
To become a Rustic Road, a roadway must have outstanding natural features along its borders, such as rugged natural terrain, native vegetation, native wildlife, or include open areas with rustic or agricultural vistas, which, singly or in combination, uniquely set this road apart from other roads; must be a lightly traveled local access road, one which serves the adjacent property owners and those wishing to travel by auto, motorcycle, bicycle, or hiking, for purposes of recreational enjoyment of its rustic features; and must not be scheduled or anticipated for major improvements which would change its rustic characteristics.
The program still takes nominations and I think it would be wonderful if every Wisconsin county was represented. So let’s go Douglas, Langlade, Marathon, Menominee, Wood, Buffalo, Crawford, Monroe, Richland, Calumet and Milwaukee counties. I’ve driven in many of those counties. I know that you have roads that could be designated as rustic.
GUIDE
For a free copy of the 2026 edition of Wisconsin Rustic Roads, visit https://travelwisconsin.com/order-guides or call 1-800-432-8747.
Chris Hardie spent more than 30 years as a reporter, editor
